Some dogs can react and lunge at other dogs especially when they are on a lead. They may in the past have had bad experiences with other dogs and are therefore wary of unknown dogs.  They may just not have  had enough good socialisation with other dogs and feel uncomfortable and unsure how to greet them.  They have learned that barking and lunging at them will usually make them go away.  If this behaviour has worked well for them they will learn to repeat it next time they meet an unknown dog.  Sometimes they can be fine with smaller dogs but not so good with bigger dogs, sometimes certain breeds will set them off or certain colours all dependant on their previous experiences. 


The thing we must not do is listen to the people who tell you to just let the dog get used to other dogs by plenty of introductions.  When a dog displays a behaviour that is unwanted we must really strive to not allow that behaviour to be repeated and to teach an alternative behaviour.  This should be the rule for any unwanted behaviour.  A dog will always repeat what has been rewarding for him.  Like barking at the gate.  Somebody comes to the gate, dog barks and rushes the gate, person goes away.  The dogs behaviour in his mind has been rewarded with the scary person going away and therefore will repeat, sometimes faster and noisier. Same with when he encounters strange dogs, bikes, etc.
 
So we need to try and prevent this happening.  It is distance that is your friend here.
 

• Stay away from narrow lanes where the chances are you might meet other dogs. Dogs naturally would never greet a strange dog head on, this can be threatening to them.   If your dog is worried about other dogs and sees one coming towards him ( and knows he cant get away because you have likely tightened up the lead).  By the time they come face to face he may have gone over threshold and will bark and lunge to try and scare that dogs away. 

 

• Try to keep to open quieter park areas where it is unlikely you will meet off lead dogs.  As you are walking your dog here practice focus,  in that as he checks in with you i.e. looks at you in the eye, reward him with something really tasty or let him catch a ball or whatever your dog likes the best. While here you can reward your dog when he sees another dog.  Here we want to try and change his negative response to other dogs to positive responses.  You may be able to ask a friend with a calm dog to help here by walking with you with their dog but maybe 20 metres away and reward your dogs for walking nicely and gradually reducing the distance.  Always try and be aware of your dogs body language.  He will tell you when he is getting concerned.  Be prepared to take avoiding action.  Run your hand down his lead toward his collar and turn away “ ok this way”. Reward, reward reward.

 

• Use every walk as a training walk with loose leash walking , focus, you can also train an “attention noise” i.e. every time you make a specific noise or say a special word it means he has to orientate to you and he should be rewarded.  Don’t be afraid to reward him over and over for the wanted behaviour.  Practice this at home by sitting on the floor with your dog, throw a piece of food away as he goes and gets it say your word , noise (only use this word or noise for this purpose)  “ what’s this”. “ brrrrp”. Something that is not a usual everyday word.  And reward,  reward, reward when he comes to you.

 

• If you are walking along pavements and a dog comes toward you , calmly and confidently change direction ,  cross over the road, go down a lane and reassure your dog with a confident “ ok this way”.  Your dog will soon learn that you have got this in hand.  If he starts to become alert i.e. ears up, maybe hackles up  say “ none of your business” strong and confident manner.  Tone of voice is really important  in these circumstances.

 

• If you have to pass another dog try and be as relaxed as you can.  Change your dog to your far away side and try and block eyeballing while you walk.  I always say “ooh look at that nice doggy”. This does help as it is said with a nice,  happy tone of voice.

 

• I would also advise using a head halter as especially if you have a bigger dog you have much better control of his head.   

 

• Dogs are great body language communicators so we as owners need to be very aware of this.  If we get all uptight or stressed during these episodes your dog will pick up on this and this compounds his negative emotion towards interacting with strange dogs.  Be aware of this keep it light.  Everybody who has owned a reactive dog knows how embarrassing and stressful it is.  The dog doesn’t need to know.

 

• If your dog does manage to have a meltdown when out walking it has been scientifically proven than it can take up to 72 hours for him to completely calm down again. So taking him on walk after walk is probably not a good idea.  A play in the garden, some long lasting chews, lots of rest, lots of relaxing massage can really help him to get back to normal. 

 
If you feel you need more help for your dog you should consider contacting a behaviourist who specialises in this type of behaviour.  They can help more with the practical aspects of walking near dogs and help you develop a strategy for making him feel more comfortable in other dogs company.  Make sure you get a positive reinforcement trainer.

​Written by "Games based dog trainer"